Page 1 of 8

G16VBX

Posted: 22 Jan 2010
by jayw
All this messing with the new garage has made me bother my arse to sort out my Work In Progress photo's of the Racer, so if anyone's interested they're here:

http://cid-6ce6986c07c4d5d4.skydrive.li ... ject%2016v

Getting SERIOUS withdrawal from it now :( Gonna spend a couple of days fiddling next week as i've got the week off...

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 22 Jan 2010
by Bx Bandit
Berrrrrrrrrr-limey you've put some work in there mate. Perfectionist personified!

Very interesting and I didn't see a spot of rust!

What's going on with the rear bumper? what's the black stuff and is it going on or coming off?

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 22 Jan 2010
by Philhod
:shock: Fuck me it must have taken you months to do all that.....I mean stopping to take pictures after removing or fitting every bolt. :lol: :lol: :lol:

On a serious note. Are you using the side impact runner as your lower support for the whole frame??????????

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by docchevron132
I've seen this thing fo real! Infact I towed it with the TD!
Should be a fucking beast I reckon. It really does look very clean and well done in the tin!

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by jayw
If it was good enough for Gandhini it's good enough for my camera :lol: :lol: :lol:

As for using the side runner as the support... i'm not following you?? If by that you mean it looks rather low, that's because it is. I had to tie function with form... otherwise entry & exit will only be through the window :shock:

Those black bits on the bumper are actually ruddy great holes! That was the first application of the fibreglass to increase the depth of the rear bumper by 3". 2nd application covers those and then it's skimmed from the front.

0% rust found!

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by Bx Bandit
jayw wrote:.... I had to tie function with form... otherwise entry & exit will only be through the window :shock:
And? The Dukes of Hazard managed! :lol:
jayw wrote: Those black bits on the bumper are actually ruddy great holes! That was the first application of the fibreglass to increase the depth of the rear bumper by 3". 2nd application covers those and then it's skimmed from the front.

0% rust found!
Ah, not the holes (although I did wonder about them too!) but where the bumper seems half white/rubbed down and half black with 'scrapings' having fallen off?

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by jayw
That's coz the bumper used to be black and i Nitromorsed it lol

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by Philhod
otherwise entry & exit will only be through the window
No it's fine where it is, but I've built a lot of cages in the past and I nearly always ran a tube along the floor,that got welded to the floor and all the down tubes were welded to that.
This spreads the impact loads around the frame and doesn't let the floor buckle upwards into the driving space (end for end rolls)
Where that wasn't possible I welded strips to the floor where the down tubes landed.

That's all :wink:

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 23 Jan 2010
by jayw
I tell ya what, if i could get it to do an end to end roll i'd be pretty chuffed lol

The areas where the downtubes land were all plated up in 3mm to lessen the chance of the tubes punching through the floor in a roll, the strength of that securing to the floor plus the siderunners holding the front hoop to the main hoop will less the chance of the car turning into a banana in a frontal. From the few frontal crash photo's i've seen of BX's the weak point is at the bottom of the A pillars essentially allowing the forward 'box' to fold backward into the passenger compartment. In theory, if i crash it head on the firewall can only move back 6 inches before it meets the full resistence of the cage cell. In theory....

TBH, i'm not particularly intending to put any of these theories into practice, after having spent near on 7 grand by completion (or over 10k if the supercharger goes ahead).

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 24 Jan 2010
by Philhod
8) If you braced them that's fine. the ones I developed was for the grass track racing boys.

They were in Mini's mainly and rolls were an accepted occurrence in that game, also the heavy bit's were very close to yer feet to start with.
The cage went into the footwell as well :roll: but the down tubes did regularly punch through the floor without support, that's why we went for a full tube and where we couldn't get one I used 1/4 plate. <mutters belt, braces, elastic band, piece of rope.....>

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 26 Apr 2010
by jayw
Finally got the car out of the garage and up to the new house on Saturday & got stuck straight in with some of the smaller quick & easy jobs...

Rear discs & sphere's went on in an hour or so and both rear quarters were heavily undersealed, this is where i found my first and only bit of rust thus far (the transverse plate that holds the rear outer wing out from the inner wing, just by the expansion tank), alas well treated & given an extra coat of underseal to boot.
Image
Image

Perfect timing i feel to raise a couple of questions:

1. I need to permanently lose the expansion tank, it's in the way of where the 2nd tailbox need to go and is unnecessary weight. Are there any obvious implications of this and how would i go about replacing the breather?

2. The fuel pump is being relocated to the underside of the boot floor where the spare wheel used to be (for pretty much the same reason as before). To supply sufficient fuel for the final setup i need to increase fuel flow, little short of shelling out for a Facet or similar i was thinking i should just be able to run a second pump (which i already have) in parallel with the first. Am i correct in thinking this will just double the fuel flow and not affect the pressure? And once it's all replaced will the return lines be able to cope with the return flow?

Cheers!

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 26 Apr 2010
by Vanny
1) Find a 1.4 bx or similar in a scrappy, that will solve the problem, and give a smaller fuel tank. I would seriously consider foam baffle in the tank as the shape is very prone to sloshing the fuel around.

2) These assumptions would be fine for free flow, but i think they are wrong when you have a back pressure. What will you do about pulse damping? The pumps will not run in phase! (well they might, but its bloody unlikely). The BX pump is NOT maxed out. You can increase the flow by reducing back pressure (ie bigger nozzles) then correct the pressure with an FSE style fuel regulator. I suggest you need to get an adjustable fuel regulator anyway if your changing the existing fuelling strategy, or simply to achieve max performance as stock.

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 26 Apr 2010
by Philhod
You are right Vanny, pumps in line will phase in and out with the harmonics. In and out of sync = pulsing. It works on the HDI because one delivers the fuel and the second raises the pressure more than considerably just to keep the rail fed. So it's two separate stages.
Interestingly the returns are no bigger in dia than the BX.

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 26 Apr 2010
by Philhod
You are right Vanny, pumps in line will phase in and out with the harmonics. In and out of sync = pulsing. It works on the HDI because one delivers the fuel and the second raises the pressure more than considerably just to keep the rail fed. So it's two separate stages.
Interestingly the returns are no bigger in dia than the BX.

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by docchevron132
Erm, the tank breather is a seperate unit, so ditching the extra tank is no harder than just removing the tank and replacing it with the plastic pipe that lesser cars have. Sadly, I dont have any.
All the scrappers have the extra tank..
Although, actually, er, the grey estate *might* have said pipe, in which case you can have it.
The single pump will be plenty man enough, really.

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by smiffy
Chris, what about the green TXD scrapper?

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by jayw
I have the original breather from the expansion tank, i'm just not entirely sure how to retrofit it without the expansion tank. As you can see above, all i have remaining is the main fill hose and what i assume to be the overflow-return pipe.

I also have all this:

Image

The white bit is obviously the breather, just don't know how to refit it to the remaining pipework. (obviously i also need to add a length of hose between the filler neck and the existing filler hose).

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by docchevron132
one side of the breather will go to the top of the filler neck, as it does now, the other attaches to a pipe that runs along to the tank.
The breather itself, and assosiated pipework is the same regardless of the extra tank or not bar one extra bit from the breather to a T shape vent strapped under the filler pipe.
All of which will be on the estate if you want it, including the actual plastic filler pipe that replaces the extra tank like..

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by jayw
docchevron132 wrote: All of which will be on the estate if you want it, including the actual plastic filler pipe that replaces the extra tank like..
Yes please!

Re: G16VBX

Posted: 27 Apr 2010
by Vanny
You coming this weekend Jay?