BXProject

Well, this is a bit cheeky so do feel free to tell me where to stick it...

Over the last couple of years I was lucky enough to have a very knowledgeable friend who would do all the work on my BX in return for vodka and home-cooked food, as long as I paid for parts.

Unfortunately this no longer seems to be the case, but I still can't afford Surrey garage rates.

Is there anyone on here willing to give up some time and use their skills to get my BX legal for another year, in return for beer or a laughably small amount of cash? I don't know what it needs yet, but it's bound to fail on something...

Methinks it's time for you to learn to do the jobs yourself. None of the work is hard, provided you invest in some tools and a manual.
There is a wealth of expertise on here, that would be very hard to duplicate ANYWHERE in the world, to guide you. Some of us have spares as well.

Give it a go. There is nothing like the sense of achievement when you get that MOT ticket.

OR, you can give me a shout once you know what you need.

Fancy a trip to Wales?

If you take it for a test with plenty of time, you can do the jobs almost at your leisure...I'm guessing the worry is taking parts off and not being able to refit? Would you be able to car share with someone else if a job did drag on a bit longer than expected? That may take some pressure off - I don't like doing jobs knowing I need the car the next day either! (That said, I still have to do some welding on the exhaust tonight...)

MOT gives you 10 working days to re-test (thats 2 weeks) there ain't that many jobs that take that long! Even for the novice I have a the odd few hours free here and there, a stack of spares and i'm reasonably local...

It's the pressure that learns you fast Mat.

Many's the time I've been under the motor with a g/box or something on top of me and the mrs holding the torch and reading me instructions.
All so I would be able to get to work the following morning and those were the days when you didn't get paid if you didn't appear.
Sort of concentrated the mind a bit.

Philhod wrote: It's the pressure that learns you fast Mat.

Agreed, I've been in the same situation and found myself tackling jobs I wouldn't have planned to start had I known...but it's given me more confidence now. But pressure takes the enjoyment out of it for me somewhat.

Yes I know what you mean Mat but it is, as you say a confidence thing.

I'm coming from a different start point. As a trained mechanical engineer, I know I will get the job done. If I've not seen the job before that gives me the confidence to start it, knowing that I have the skills to arrive at a solution. The job may take a little longer, or I may be short of the right tool but I can improvise using that pool of knowledge.

Distance is a slight issue, and spare time is in short supply at the moment, again, but, if I'm ever able to help you need but ask and I'm there mate.

Thanks guys - I'll be getting the test done early January and will let you know what's required then...

No problem mate, I'm sure a team of highly skilled pissheads can descend upon you and fix it up!

Thanks Doc.

The bloody thing's been toying with me lately. After two and a half years of (mostly) being reliable, in the last week I've had a puncture, the front windscreen washer's failed, the rev counter's failed and last night it wouldn't start - although I think that may have been my fault for doing some very short journeys even though I haven't replaced the slipping alternator belt yet.

At least the interior blower that Mat kindly fixed is still working!

Defo taking the piss My washer has also given up the ghost, down to a fuse because I was working them whilst frozen. Puncture? well that can happen anytime, but especially when your driving over stuff you can't see.

Slipping alty belt will catch you out sooner or later in the cold. You only need a screwdriver to tighten it, unless it's really slack.
Rev counter (petrol right?) works off your coil so check your cable connections. RE none starting.

Stu's is a diesel, Phil.
My rev coumnters been playing up for weeks, sometimes works fine, sometimes doesn't work at all, sometimes kicks, sometimes reads low etc..
It's the sensor, I just CBA to change it right now..

It has definitely developed a sense of humour.

Whenever I find a parking space on a hill so that I can bump-start it, it starts fine. If I can't, it won't. I'm starting to think that's a wiring fault and will investigate further now that I'm off night shifts and actually see daylight sometimes.

The rev counter is doing pretty much the same as Doc's, plus it's developed a habit of dropping to zero when the engine's idling: with the result that every time I'm approaching a junction and drop the clutch, I think the engine's cut out...

Phil, I thought the alternator needed a socket to adjust it? I did have a go before I started night shifts, but the temperature was still so low I physically couldn't grip the tool and gave up!

Rev counter could be the sensor needs pushing closer tot he flywheel and the 10mm bolt tightening up.
The alternator will require a 21mm spanner (cranked), a 13mm spanner and a 10mm spanner.

Sounds like an electrical fault re: the starter.
Will it start if you bridge the solonoid out?

Getting really despondent now

Drove to work today and by the time I got there I had yet another flat tyre, before I've had a chance to do anything about the last one, and the speedo got stuck at 75mph for about 10 minutes after I'd slowed down, making an appalling noise like a death rattle.

After two and a half years of reliability it's obviously decided it's had enough.

I'm actually considering doing something I've never ever done before, and am looking at car loans with the idea of getting something younger.

None of what you describe sounds very terminal to me and could probably be fixed in 1/2 an hour.
Diseasals do make more noise in winter, quiet diesels are the ones to worry about.

stu wrote:the speedo got stuck at 75mph for about 10 minutes after I'd slowed down, making an appalling noise like a death rattle.

For that to happen most likely means that the drum bearing is dry of oil and just apply a drop on the end of a thin rod to fix. The rattle is likely because the stuck drum is opposing the field and eddy currents of the rotating magnets.

As posted on here before, I thought my speedo was kaput after making a death rattle and oscillating needle but the application of 3in1 oil to the input shaft and trip pawls returned that to a smooth and accurate instrument.

You can take the dash pod out of the car & do this job indoors too!

It's also worthwhile splitting the outer cable at it's joint and spraying easing oil up and down.

Again, like w2g said, this is very thin oil and will lubricate without clogging.
If you have a manual be aware of all the clips holding the dash console in position. These are easy to break if you are too rough with it.