BXProject

I can check if there's any numbers on my genuine (bought from a dealer in France) 80 Amp alternator if that helps at all? From what I remember there was an extra heatsink on the end that wasn't present on the 55 Amp one it replaced.

is ok dude, I have found another unit on the bay of plenty, and subject to hearing back from him (not a shop seller, but has a brand new one) to confirm that it is brand new, and indeed the full 80amps then I shall cross his palm with folding and be done with it!

764 is the correct code for a 80amp pug alternator.

Looks like i have a brand new 50amp alternator doing naff all if you get stuck doc.

right number yes, but the seller tells me the actual unit is a 50amp.
Have found another 80amp, new, hopefully.

there going to refund me for the alternator, and the postage. just have to wrap it and send it back now.

jobs a good un.
Pending the arrival of my shiney new one I may get another for the TD.

The Ebay link on the last page is as you say the right one, the full 80 amp job, £55 and £15 postage, which I thought was ok, and after a lot of initial confusion they've been very helpful, so if you still need an 80amp unit, give them a click!

Oh, and if cash is tight, you're welcome to a 50amp unit for fuck all if it gets you by for now mate.

hmmm, alternator arrived, no ident marks on it at all, and a 4PK pulley.
Now, since all valvers / TD's had 5PK pulleys I do wonder if it actually is a 80AMP unit..
No probs to change the pulley over, and I think I'll get the ammeter out and test it! If it isn't a 80amp unit I'll be very annoyed.

Ain't that always the way? I'm getting increasingly weary of this distance selling bolx, as I think sellers hide behind not being in front of the customer and feeling accountable and banking that most will get fucked off and not bother returning shit.

How the fuck you gonna test the 80 amp capacity of the alt dude?

I use my digital tester. Volts, Amps Watts, Ohms, AC/DC etc.
One of the lekies at work gave it me years ago when he got a new one...still works ok.....when I remember to put a battery in it

You'll need to put an appropriate load on it to measure the current output, and most handheld meters won't cope with 80 amps going through them! (Unless you use a shunt).

I've seen those clamp on ammeters that simply go around the cable - never used one though.

It's a tong tester. Used them all the time when welding TIG, on some jobs you had to have the amps dead right for root runs. Had to use longer/ shorter cable. Sometimes we had to put a short length of very thick cable between feed and supply.

He still assures me it IS an 80amp unit, but with a 4pk pulley I'm not convinced, as it goes I have an ammeter that goes to 100 amps, so I'll strap that in line from the +ve lead, stick a totally fucked battery on the car and see what it does.
I'll be well miffed if it isn't an 80 amp unit thuogh, fitting and removing alternators on valvers is an utter ballache.

and hence why i only want to do it once!

ahhh, but I'm getting good at alternator swoppage mate!
See, another good reaosn to move to Stroud, that and I'd have a quality Doctor on hand for the endless mishaps with grinders and gearboxes!

the endless mishaps with grinders and gearboxes!

Not to mention the arms hands and fingers

yeah, them aswell!

docchevron132 wrote:fitting and removing alternators on valvers is an utter ballache.

Even worse on a 205 - have to take the radiator (or inlet manifold) off, and to do that on ours you have to manoeuvre the bumper out of the way. I was not a happy bunny when I mistakenly jump started it the wrong way round and fried the clocks, alternator and part of the wiring loom... (In my defence the donor battery had the coloured caps on the wrong way round, I was in a hurry so obviously didn't check ).

Doc, why not fit to the TD for testing purposes? Fuck of alot less messing!

erm, it may need to go on the TD anyway!
Got in it last night, fired it up, had to rev it to 2.5K before the bloody light went out... grrr.. fucking French shit.