BXProject

[mnde]

I recently noticed that the cooling fan only seems to come on at the fast speed. I checked the fan switch and sure enough it was covered with LHM from the recent leak, and crud. I cleaned up the connector with WD and the spade connectors with metal polish. I bridged the terminals; both speeds worked.

Put the connector back on and started the engine. Eventually I saw the fan twitch a couple of times, then a pause, then it burst into full speed. After a while again, a couple of twitches like it was trying to start, a pause, then full speed.

Is my switch on the way out or does the fan usually go straight to full speed in high ambient temperature?

Cheers,

Mark.

[mat_the_cat]

I've never seen it go straight to high, so I suspect a problem with the internal contacts for the 'slightly hot' operation.

[mnde]

Thanks Mat. I assume I've ruled out the low speed resistor as the fan worked perfectly well on low speed when I bridged the appropriate terminals? I do have a new fan switch *somewhere* but I don't know if it's got the same switch temps or not. Are they written on the side or something?

Bit of a faff as I'm trying to sell the car, but at least we're heading towards the right time of year for it to have a slight cooling issue...

It was definitely working fine until recently, because I thought it odd that the fast speed was coming on, as I've seldom if ever heard it! You know the difference - I can feel the vibration and it's much louder! Low speed must have been working previously because I remember the only time I knew it had been on was when I heard it power down when I switched off the ignition.

Mark.

[Philhod]

That's strange. K39 just boiled as the fan didn't kick in, I have a spare plug in for the side of the rad. I think I'll swap them this morning and see what happens.
The slow fan on the heater has stopped as well it's either intermediate or full..
Electrickery is FTL.
Rear wiper is not working either. Fuse is ok. It works from a direct feed. So, it's either the switch or the wire between the switch and the unit. hmmmmmmm

[mnde]

Bad earths?

My blower fan works brilliantly since I cleaned up all the earth wires on the n/s inner wing and the connection where the neg battery lead bolts onto the gearbox/engine. Before then it was iffy - sometimes it came on if you turned the control up full - but not at full power, sometimes it turned really slowly, sometimes nada. And lower speeds - forget it. I've never had the rear wiper fail though.

Mark.

[docchevron132]

rear wipers usually fail through iezure due to lack of use..

Some rad switches have the operatinf temps stamped on the face, some dont..

[mat_the_cat]

K39 just boiled as the fan didn't kick in,
Rear wiper is not working either.

Sounds like a bit of a shed to me Phil, good job you're not trying to sell it or anything...

[Philhod]

Cleaned all contacts on the rad fan connections and all is working fine now.

I removed the rear wiper switch and shorted across the wires using a U piece.
The wiper and washer work fine, so it must be the switch.
I even took the switch apart and shorted out the resistor, in case it was that that had failed, but it was dead. The only thing working on it was the internal light
Trip up to Rigbye's tomorrow to see if he has a switch amongst the BX stuff he still has, I think is in order.
I need some of those black plastic push in securing buttons, for the trim anyway.

[mat_the_cat]

Which ones, you mean for the boot trim?

[Philhod]

Them's the ones. I only need 5 + a couple of bigger ones that go...err....somewhere else.

[mat_the_cat]

I'll have a look, pretty sure I've got some spare. About 1" across, like a mushroom shape with a slot in the end that go over a threaded stub? Can't think of any bigger ones though!

[Philhod]

No. Those are the ones that hold the boot sides in place. These are push in ones with a plain head about 1/2" across and about 1/16"thk, with a ribbed shank about 1/2" long.
They hold in the trim inside the boot sill, in the hatch inner face and the retainers that run down each side of the hatch hiding the wiring.

I went up to Rigbye's today and ordered some which will be in Friday am.
The switches are nla. but Phil is having a look see amongst the BX stuff he still has.
I will publish a list of spares I have, on Friday. If no one needs anything they will go with the car.
If anyone has a working binnacle rear wiper switch................

[docchevron132]

what colour mate?

[Philhod]

If that's at me Doc, all interior is black, as per piccies.

[docchevron132]

it was mate yes. Not sure I have any black switches left actually, but I'll check.

[Philhod]

Ta Docers. If you have any, I could always paint it

[docchevron132]

Cant find any aside from one in brown! But I'm sure I have switches, I'll keep looking..

[mat_the_cat]

Could you put your front on Doc's brown rear? So to speak...

Likewise, I know I have one as I remember removing it earlier this year. But can I find it? No!

[Philhod]

That's a point Mat. It does come apart that switch. It's got 4 little hooks that hold the front on. Not sure if there's any worky bitz left in there though. I'll have a look tomorrow.

I'm organising the MOT this week. I've removed the arm temporarely, so it won't pick up an advisory.

I wouldn't dream of putting my front on Doc's rear
Oh! I see......well, not unless he asked me nicely

[mnde]

Sorry I need to ask the question again:

I think I know the answer but.... humour me: If the cooling fan works fine in low speed when I bridge the appropriate terminals on the unplugged connector, does this mean the low speed resistor behind the headlamp is OK and it's the switch itself that is suspect?

The car's going to Scotland, see...

Thanks,

Mark.