BXProject

So, decision mostly made, 6 speed it is.


I have the box, need reverse cables and a rebuild.

My reckoning is i need to put the Mi16 1.9 diff and stick it in the GTi6 box (this means i don't have to cock about with changing drive shaft caps/cv's).

Then there is the issue with fitting the FDV and PR to the front of the car. The GTI6 box bolts into the oddly shaped GTi6 sump, can't be arsed with this so i'm planning to swap the bell housing from the Mi16 box to the GTi6 box. Bit of an epic rebuild i guess.

So anyone got a spare BE3 gearbox for me to strip down? And is it worth rebuilding the unknown condition GTi6 at the same time?

I'm also seriously thinking about an LSD, probably the Quaife QDF3H but for the time being it's not in the budget!


Anyone any good thoughts on how to non permanently reduce the travel on the rack?


Let the mayhem continue!!

After a quick bit of reading, i'm now wondering about a cable operated shifter taken straight from a Peugeot 406/C5, anyone have any experience with these?

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... opic=25837" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you have a XU engine with BE gearbox the swap is quite simple. The system needs to be from a C5 or a 406 from 1998 or younger

Need to find some anti sink valves/spheres and find some pipe flaring tools

...and someone else to respond to this thread!

Personally, unless there's play in the bearings or a load of swarf in the oil, I'd be inclined to leave rebuilding the box for now. Sure, it'd be nice to have a freshly rebuilt 'box, but it'd be even nicer to have a running car actually on the road and a bit more money to spend on fuel! It wouldn't be a big deal to take the box out at a later date for a rebuild if it needs it.

Can't help you with the techy bits though, sorry.

ok, no idea on the cables, although I'm fairly sure a C5 unit wouldn't do the job. The selector pack an an ML box is totally different to a BE..
Yes, I have a BE3 box from the TD in bits already, you're welcome to the case.
If you're going to change the diff and swop the bellhousing then you'll have to strip the box out anyway, so whilst you're in there I'd be inclined to replace the bearings, and check the condition of the synchro's, althhough I wuoldn't imagine they'd be in bad shape, they are extremely hard wearing.

As for the rack, the only sensible option i can see is to weld over the teeth to stop the pinion from travelling too far. Easy done with the boots off and a tape measure.

If I happen across a stricken xantia I'll whip the anti sink off.

I'm thinking a two piece nylon bush bolted over the end of the ram or similar. I don't want to weld teeth on the rack until I'm happy with it. Might dig the spare rack out and see if there is an easy option.

I think the thought is, the early c5 had a be3 and cable shift, hence needing an early on.

not sure how the MOT man will view that.. How did Citroen limit rack travel on the genuine 6 speeds?

I cant think of a C5 with a BE3, certainly I've never seen one, although that said i've laregly only buggered about with HDI's, I guess the HPI might have had a BE3??

Revelations, not the book, just some homework!

I've managed to get myself a cable for the reverse mechanism along with the cabin selector shaft from a GTi6. I think there is definitely some scope for fitting the couplings for the cabin end of the cable onto a BX gear selector, though i'm going to continue to look to the possibility of fitting a cable operated shifter.

Some piccies?

tis a very different stick to the standard then!

just a tad, i'm thinking about trying to get the 'fixed' portion off the 306 shifter and sticking it on the BX shifter, but i can't really remember what the BX shifter looks like!

I can! It looks fuck all like that!

Thought on shortening the steering on one side?

My current thoughts are;

a) 17" rims
b) 20mm spacers
c) rubber/steel collet on the OSsticky out bit of the steering rack (ie where the push bar comes out of the rack its self. Might need to be held in with a cotter pin or similar.

Other thoughts i've heard/seen

d) piece of angle to stop the RHS rack arm coming out all the way. I believe this would be an MOT fail?
e) Back filling some teeth on the rack with the weldy stick

I suspect e) could take a lot of fucking about taking the rack in and out of the car, i dont think its a subframe out job, but i suspect its a PITA.

My favourite is to put a polybush stopper on one side, but i dont remember what the steering rack is like in detail so this might be a fail fail situation?

Vanny wrote:in and out of the car, i dont think its a subframe out job, but i suspect its a PITA.

It's not and it's not that bad, i've done it once and was a lot less trouble than i'd been lead to believe!

Just read this topic on the XMForum (you need to be a registered member)

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 52bcf0ad17" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It would seem that i could indeed whip the boot off and clamp in a chunk of polybush and ligarex it in place. Should make that job a little easier as i shouldn't have to remove the steering column at all. Will have to try it on the spare rack first, assuming A) i have a spare rack still, b) i can find it in the three storage centres.

If you are thinking semi/ permanent fitting Vanny, I would secure it by drilling through the bush and rack together and securing with say a split taper pin.
This would make it impossible to coome adrift even with hard usage and also removeable.

it's a fuck sight easier to whip the rack out than drop the subframe for info. Especially on the valver..

oooooh a ghost