BXProject

For the BX 16 Valve, Citroen list the following;
I've spotted on ebay a trader selling 'genuine' Purflux filters for the 'BX - all models' and the part number is 1109 AL which is Purflux - LS923. I've looked into it and externally the two are identical, however the AL is listed on the Purflux website as being for sub 2 litre petrols and diesels, and the AP for over 2 litre diesels.

This makes me think the AL is a denser filtering medium and thus reduces flow, something you don't want on a valver.

Am i just being picky? What do you fit? Need to go check what Purflux filter is on the valver at the moment!

I fit whatever comes off the shelf first, never had a problem with any oil filter ever on any car. Maybe i'm just not fussy.

Typically it'll be a Mann (i like men - oooo errrrr)

I bet you use any old oil and not total quartz

I use Triple 'R' fully synthetic for everything and at £22 a gallon it's a steal!

Actually, your original post reminds me of something that was annoying me a while ago, not related to filters but engine additives...

They're always quoting a dosage rate based on engine CC rather than oil capacity, now the BX is something like 4.5l (off the top of my head) whereas my Primera is 2.5l, so what's with the obsession with CC?!

CC is rarely linked to oil capacity.

LS867 B is the fucker I always use.. never used MANN filters, but dad has..

Oh, and AFAIK, the only difference is the t'other one is supposed to be "long life"?

docchevron132 wrote: t'other one is supposed to be "long life"?

at 3000 miles between fluid changes, long life isn't especially important!

Thats 3000 miles in 3 years mind

Christ, mines dne 3000 miles since December! Best to change the fluid annually if you aint doing the mileage though..

At least his coolant should be fresh!

I have a stock of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270601790893? ... 1438.l2649
so will have a look and see what the Purflux number is.

mat_the_cat wrote:At least his coolant should be fresh!

Finally got the last silicon hose, so there is only the header tank and the plastic multiway housing down the back which are actually original. Not fitting it until it warms up though, for now i'll just top up the coolant as i go!

I've always been same as Jay. First one I pick up that fitz. I've used lots of different oils over the years from the old Duckhams green up to the synthetic I use now.
I suppose I have averaged about 12 k miles a year and have pretty much stuck to changing it once a year, without any problems at all.

I change my oil every 4Kmiles in the valver, and every 3K in the td..

Found this interesting thread on 205 gti drivers

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... pic=151464

It would seem there are a range of different settings for the non-return valve, which seems fundamental to keeping some oil pressure in the head to save murdering the hydraulic tappets when starting from cold.

It would seem various non OEM filters either have the wrong performance for this valve or simply dont have it at all, now i'm even more paranoid about getting the right filter.

Just spent a fortune getting the correct oil as well (fortune, £19 delivered for 5+1 litres, it just took some finding), but managed to find the correct filter on eBay delivered for £5.

Well I've been driving and servicing cars for 53 years now from sports and performance to plodding diesel and turbo d's.
I have never changed the oil more than once a year but always used a premium brand and picked up whatever make of filtre that happened to be in stock where I get my stuff. OK so I changed to semi synth now and would probably go fully if I had a performance motor again.
I have never had any oil related mechanical issue on any car I've had..................so, err, I think you can lose the paranoia Vanny

Philhod wrote:I have never had any oil related mechanical issue on any car I've had

I guess you've never had a racing engine starved of oil? The Mi16 is notorious for it, and I've seen one obliterate its self on track.

It's nice to know what to look for and why I should be using the right filter.

I dont like synthetic oils in this car, the one occasion I used semi synth it smoked terribly on start up, i mean not Fenwick accelerating away in the BX smoke, but more than i liked. So for this engine its mineral all the way.

But given that Jazz isn't used for track work, I probably can lose the paranoia, a bit

Ah well, oil starvation is different and is generally due to an under rated pump or inferior sump designnarrow oilways et al.
I think there was a flat ish sump made for that engine with a fully pumped separate (cooled) plastic tank but I seem to remember it being on a Pug, somewhere in FinlandI might have the details in an old mag somewhere. I'll have a look see.
I did have a Manta mk2. cam in head with a sequential box back in 76. It got treated the same and although not raced I used to screw the balls off it as I couln't stop pissing about with that ubercool (then) gearchange/

For reference more than anything, I managed to source the correct 1109.AP Purflux oil filter for the BX 16Valve, so here are some pictures.





I also managed to find the correct Quartz 5000 mineral oil and at 6 litres for £19 delivered, it seemed rather reasonable.

I ended up using a MANN filter on the valver at last oil change, largely because it was Sunday afternoon and it was all I had. It rattled like a bastard on star up. Ditched it the following day for a proper Purflux, perfect since...

I use Total Quartz 7000 in the valver, and 5000 in the TD, although it's getting REALLY hard to find round here now...

surprisingly i ordered mine through Amazon.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... uartz+5000

Funnily enough I ended up with a blue Purflux filtre this time, with 5L of something called Tripple QX semi synth oil at £15 5-40's.
Never heard of it but it's quiet and works fine.
Had a run down to Llangllen in it Sunday for the steam railway event. Longest run it's had for months.