Unfortunately, I didn’t get out to the car today to take a look for you, but if I do, I’ll try to remember how I do it in situ. My socket set ratchets are mostly a 72-point ratchet, which is a much higher resolution. This means a small movement will still click the ratchet. Great for confined spaces.

Usually, I put a trolley jack under the rear engine mount (big casting with the drive shaft running through it) and take the weight of the engine off the mount. I can then undo the five nuts holding the mount to the engine and car (only four on a turbo diesel) and take the mount completely off the car. A little rocking may be needed. Once the mount is out of the way, you can usually work the buffer in to place.
Hope that helps
M

Hi Abraham, that is quite interesting, I’d love to see the shape of your shims, admin@bxproject.co.uk , I’d also love to see the other 4×4 mounts as that could be useful information in the near future.
M

Nicely presented as always. I just wanted to add that my BX 4×4 came from factory with two (!) shims, one behind each rubber buffer. They are zinc-plated and very much different in shape than yours.They are mentioned in both parts diagrams I own. I was also having some issues with vibrations, mainly all transmitted through the chassis, the more the higher the revs. I removed these shims and now the engine feels much smoother. The 4×4 also has a second smaller lower engine mount, to help balance the weight of the transfer box. I can send you pictures if you so desire. Thanks for all the info you show on this blog, you helped me so much with the uncommon BX heater tap!

If the buffers are overly worn, I’ve found Pug 205 buffers relatively easy to get hold of. They’re the ones that need the extra hole drilling, but proper BX ones seem impossible to find these days. M