{"id":1994,"date":"2021-06-27T20:00:22","date_gmt":"2021-06-27T19:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/?p=1994"},"modified":"2023-04-16T16:29:56","modified_gmt":"2023-04-16T15:29:56","slug":"citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-12","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-12\/","title":{"rendered":"Citro\u00ebn BX &#8211; Heater Tap Overhaul &#8211; Part 1&#038;2"},"content":{"rendered":"<span class=\"span-reading-time rt-reading-time\" style=\"display: block;\"><span class=\"rt-label rt-prefix\"><\/span> <span class=\"rt-time\"> 8<\/span> <span class=\"rt-label rt-postfix\">min. read<\/span><\/span>\n<p>Replacing heater taps is a topic that often comes up on the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bxclub.co.uk\/forum\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">BXClub Forum<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/groups\/bxclubUK\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">BXClub Facebook<\/a> pages. In 2012, I had to do the job myself, so I took some time to write up the process. It&#8217;s a forum topic that has been used and referenced many times, but it never felt robust or complete. In this series of articles, I&#8217;ll revisit the topic and improve the step-by-step process of replacing the heater tap on the Citroen BX.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The article is broken down into several parts;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"#HeaterTapPart1\">Disconnecting the heater tap<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#HeaterTapPart2\">Removing the steering column<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-3\/\">Removing the heater tap and heater matrix <\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-4\/\">Disassembling the heater tap and refurbishing<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Parts of this article were originally published on the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bxclub.co.uk\/forum\/viewtopic.php?t=16299\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">BXClub forum<\/a> back in 2012<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What is the Citroen BX heater tap?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The heater tap, as it is commonly referred to, is a simple sliding valve. It regulates the flow of coolant from the engine into the cabin ventilation unit. The Citroen BX cabin temperature is adjusted by letting hot engine coolant into the heater matrix. Outside air is blown through a heater matrix to warm the air before it passes into the cabin. The heater tap regulates the flow of coolant and thus the vent temperature. For those playing along at home, the part number is 95 576 548. It has been &#8216;NFP&#8217; (no longer available) for a very long time!<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"376\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/HeaterTapDiag.jpg\" alt=\"Parts catalogue for the heater tap, 95 576 548\" class=\"wp-image-2060\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/HeaterTapDiag.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/HeaterTapDiag-600x282.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/HeaterTapDiag-300x141.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/HeaterTapDiag-768x361.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Parts catalogue for the heater tap, 95 576 548<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why replace the heater tap?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>There are a handful of reasons why you might want to replace the heater tap. But two reasons come up the most. During my BX adventures, I&#8217;ve replaced at least four heater taps that I can remember. And I&#8217;ve managed to break several more. I&#8217;m not the authority on them, but hopefully, you can learn from my experience.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"480\" height=\"287\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Tap-02-edited.jpg\" alt=\"A bagged, brand new Citroen BX heater tap. \nI've deliberately forgotten how much this cost!\" class=\"wp-image-2059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Tap-02-edited.jpg 480w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Tap-02-edited-300x179.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A bagged, brand new Citroen BX heater tap. <br>I&#8217;ve deliberately forgotten how much this cost!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Failure by Snapped Pipes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The first one is simply that the pipes from the cabin to the engine bay have been snapped off. Overenthusiastic reattachment of the pipes, including over-tightening the jubilee clamps, is easily done. In fact, I&#8217;ve done it myself. The 30+ year old plastic is not a single polymer but is &#8216;filled&#8217; with fibre reinforcement. As the VOCs leak out of the plastic, it becomes brittle. This is made worse by continuous heat cycling in the engine bay. It&#8217;s also common for the pipes to be snapped during engine removal. Either by forgetting to disconnect the pipes or the engine hitting the pipes on the way out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Failure by blockage<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s also common for the sliding mechanism of the tap to become blocked or silted up. This blockage is usually the result of poor maintenance. For example, a lack of periodic radiator flushing or incorrect coolant mix leads to a build-up of particulates in the coolant. The tap eventually strains these out. Eventually, the build-up blocks the movement of the valve. As a result, it becomes stuck in either the open or, more commonly, the closed position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"HeaterTapPart1\">Part 1 &#8211; Disconnecting the heater tap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.1 &#8211; Under bonnet disconnection<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You can start in many places on this job. I prefer to start under the bonnet, and then you don\u2019t have to return there until the very end. So you need to undo the two hoses that run from the engine to the heater pipes. The TD is probably the hardest, followed by the Citroen BX 16 Valve. There are many variations based on engine type, but the sequence for disconnection is the same. First, remove the top hose, then the bottom hose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Initially, it can be daunting to be presented with a complete lack of access, but we are only making two pipe disconnections. No components really have to come out, although I usually remove the top hose and rail. The article assumes that you have completely drained down the coolant system, although it can be done without draining down if some precautionary steps are taken.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_03_800.jpg\" alt=\"Seeming lack of access to the tap tails is initially daunting.\" class=\"wp-image-2004\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_03_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_03_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_03_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_03_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Seeming lack of access to the tap tails is initially daunting.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Gaining access to the tap ends.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Getting in a bit closer and perhaps access isn&#8217;t as bad as I first thought. I use a trolley jack under the rear engine mount to gently push the rear of the engine up. This forces the engine to rock forward on its mounts. An inch of upward travel on the trolley jack doubles the access to the pipes.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_04_800.jpg\" alt=\"Improved access by rocking the engine forward.\" class=\"wp-image-2005\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_04_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_04_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_04_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_04_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Improved access by rocking the engine forward.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Disconnect the upper hose.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Start by disconnecting the top rail. Although the rail is not on all models, this is well worth doing for one extra hose clamp by the hydraulic pump. It will save you fighting the lower pipe, which is the one most commonly snapped! Because it&#8217;s a bit of a U-bend, there is always a bit of a coolant leak at this step.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_05_800.jpg\" alt=\"Top coolant rail removed, improving access to the lower pipe\" class=\"wp-image-2006\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_05_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_05_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_05_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_05_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Top coolant rail removed, improving access to the lower pipe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Disconnect the lower hose<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>With the top hose removed, you can start on the lower hose. This will drain ALL of the fluid in the engine through siphoning unless you do something about it. I&#8217;ve used a fuel line clamp, the orange pliers-looking thing (\u00a35 in Halfords), to crimp the pipe. This stops too much coolant from escaping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s worth noting that this bottom pipe goes into a plastic manifold on the back of the engine. Older cars may have an aluminium manifold. Both manifold types are very brittle by now and also easily snapped. For the BX 16Valve engine, the plastic coolant pipe manifold can still be bought new.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_07_800.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2008\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_07_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_07_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_07_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_07_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>For now, that&#8217;s as much disconnection as is needed in the engine bay. You should think about letting the engine off the jack if you used one. There&#8217;s no benefit to straining the rubber engine mountings.<br><br>If you find the pipes have perished or the manifold failed, try contacting <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chevronics.co.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Chevronics <\/a>for replacement parts. They currently list several pipes and manifolds for different models on their <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chevronics.co.uk\/product-category\/citroen-bx-parts\/bx-cooling-system\/page\/2\/?v=79cba1185463\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">classic parts pages<\/a>.<br>And if you have a Citroen BX 16 Valve, you can buy a whole set of hoses from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bakerbm.com\/bx16v-silicone-coolant-hoses-kit.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Baker BM<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.2 Removing the centre console trim<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The heater tap is operated by a cable system connected to the rotating knobs on the centre console. To remove the tap, you&#8217;ll need to disconnect the cables. It is possible to make the disconnection only at the tap, but it&#8217;s hard going. In my experience, you end up snapping the white blower control panel behind the dash.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.2.1 Removing the vents<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>To remove the centre console trim, we start by taking the vents out. If you look down the outside of the centre vents, you\u2019ll see a spring washer. This spring will escape into the car somewhere when you take the vent out, so CLOSE THE VENTS. Trust me, and you\u2019ll be glad of this.<br><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_11_800.jpg\" alt=\"Centre vent with outlet closed.\" class=\"wp-image-2010\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_11_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_11_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_11_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_11_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Centre vent with outlet closed. The spring-clip is on the left.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Did you close the vent? Okay, stick a wide flat-bladed screwdriver down the side of the vent and put slight sideways pressure on it. Then pull the vent out from the screwdriver side. <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_12_800.jpg\" alt=\"Levering the vent out using a screw driver.\" class=\"wp-image-2011\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_12_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_12_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_12_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_12_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Levering the vent out using a screwdriver.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Don\u2019t forget to recover the spring. If it doesn&#8217;t try to escape down the ducting, then check the back seats. They have a way of coming out somewhat explosively!<br><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_13_800.jpg\" alt=\"Heater vent retaining spring clip.\" class=\"wp-image-2012\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_13_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_13_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_13_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_13_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Heater vent retaining spring clip.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Repeat for the other vent, and we&#8217;re making progress. Unfortunately, there are a few more fixings to take out before the centre console trim can be removed.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_15_800.jpg\" alt=\"Heater vents removed from the centre console\" class=\"wp-image-2014\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_15_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_15_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_15_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_15_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Heater vents were removed from the centre console.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.2.2 Accessing the screws<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Pull the knobs off. Sometimes they\u2019re stiff and take a bit of a wiggle. This is good. It means there not broken like most of them. With the knobs off, you need to remove the screws from behind the outer knobs. If you have aircon with the sliders like below, you\u2019ll be tempted to pull them off. Don&#8217;t; they\u2019re fixed. You\u2019ll only break them!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_16_800.jpg\" alt=\"Knobs removed to access the two screws that release the heater controls\" class=\"wp-image-2015\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_16_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_16_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_16_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_16_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Knobs were removed to access the two screws that release the heater controls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.2.3 Removing the console trim<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, there are two big metal clips on either side of the vent aperture to release the console trim. Stick a screwdriver in, pull the spring out (lever the lip towards the aperture) and pull the console forward. Again, you can do one at a time or get fancy with screwdrivers and try to do both simultaneously.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_17_800.jpg\" alt=\"Spring levers release the centre console trim\" class=\"wp-image-2016\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_17_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_17_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_17_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_17_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Spring levers release the centre console trim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Once you&#8217;ve done both clips and pulled the fascia forward. You\u2019ll need to disconnect the 12v outlet socket and the backlight power supply.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_18_800.jpg\" alt=\"Disconnect the 12v outlet power and back light supply\" class=\"wp-image-2017\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_18_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_18_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_18_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_18_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Disconnect the 12v outlet power and backlight supply.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1.3 Disconnecting the heater tap from the blower control panel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>With the centre console trim removed, you\u2019ll then be with this, the blower control panel. You might notice that I have done the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bxclub.co.uk\/forum\/viewtopic.php?t=5515\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">MAX Blower mod<\/a>. I\u2019m not sure why, but this has made no difference on my factory-fit air-con car. I suspect the AC wiring is a little different.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_19_800-1.jpg\" alt=\"Blower control panel ready to be removed\" class=\"wp-image-2020\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_19_800-1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_19_800-1-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_19_800-1-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_19_800-1-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The blower control panel is ready to be removed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Notice this clip at the bottom of the circuit board. It holds the outer sheath of the Bowden cable, which controls the heater tap. These come off explosively and can be a nightmare to refind. Bear this in mind!<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_20_800.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2019\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_20_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_20_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_20_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_20_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bowden cable retaining clip<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Remove the four screws that hold the control panel retainer in place, then lift the white lugs over the black lugs in the dash.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_21_800.jpg\" alt=\"Left hand blower control panel screws removed\" class=\"wp-image-2021\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_21_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_21_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_21_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_21_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Left-hand blower control panel screws removed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_22_800.jpg\" alt=\"Blower control panel lugs lifted over and in front of the dash frame.\" class=\"wp-image-2022\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_22_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_22_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_22_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_22_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Blower control panel lugs are lifted over and in front of the dash frame.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Then do the other side. If you&#8217;ve got air conditioning, the recirculation switch will foul the centre vent duct. Fortunately, the centre vent duct is incredibly pliable so that the switch will pass with some gentle force.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"359\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_23_800.jpg\" alt=\"Right hand lugs in front of the dash frame after screw removal\" class=\"wp-image-2023\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_23_800.jpg 359w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_23_800-180x300.jpg 180w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 359px) 100vw, 359px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Right-hand lugs in front of the dash frame after screw removal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>To get the retainer to roll forward, you\u2019ll need to remove the brown plug. This plug supplies the blower and is often forgotten when reassembling!<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_24_800.jpg\" alt=\"Disconnect brown blower controller connector\" class=\"wp-image-2024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_24_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_24_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_24_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_24_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Disconnect brown blower controller connector<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Remember that spring clip? Now is the time to undo it. The cable will be under tension, so the clip will try to escape. Consider this when you disconnect. You can also disconnect the cable end for the temperature selector. There&#8217;s no need to disconnect the other Bowden cable or the air conditioning loom if you don&#8217;t want to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_25_800-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2027\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_25_800-1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_25_800-1-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_25_800-1-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_25_800-1-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"HeaterTapPart2\">Part 2 &#8211; Removing the upper steering column<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>On a right-hand drive car, simply take the steering column out. <br>The need to take the column out can be debated for many hours. You can do the job without taking the upper column out. Experience has shown me that for the 5 minutes and 5 extra nuts it takes, take the column out. I\u2019m going to whip the wheel off first, though. It makes access so much better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2.1 Removing the steering wheel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Before removing the steering wheel, it will help reassembly if you set the wheels in the straight-ahead position. Try to get the steering wheel as central as possible. Hopefully, this will let you put the steering wheel back on straight later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Remove the centre cover from the steering wheel and loosen the 21mm nut. Grab the steering wheel at 12 and 6 and rock the wheel back and forth. Pushing the top while pulling the bottom, and then reverse. Repeat about 5 times, and it should free off. Once free, remove the nut and spring washed behind it, then remove the wheel.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_09_800.jpg\" alt=\"Removing the steering wheel\" class=\"wp-image-2009\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_09_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_09_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_09_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_09_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Removing the steering wheel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2.2 Removing the steering column shroud<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>To access the steering column, we need to remove the lower steering column shroud. There are four screws in the corners. The screws are the ones that are sunk into the shroud. I&#8217;ll update the article with a decent picture when an opportunity arises.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the steering wheel is removed, two small screws also need removal for the shroud to drop. When you come to reassemble, these screws set the position of the shroud but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_28_800.jpg\" alt=\"Disconnecting the upper and lower steering column shroud.\" class=\"wp-image-2028\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_28_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_28_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_28_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_28_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Disconnecting the upper and lower steering column shroud.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Disconnect the wiring to the dimmer and the \u2018doors open buzzer\u2019 mounted on the lower steering column shroud.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_29_800.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2029\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_29_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_29_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_29_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_29_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Disconnect the wiring to the lower steering column shroud<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2.3 Disconnecting the upper steering column<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The aim isn&#8217;t to take the column off the car but to give maximum movement. But with a few extra wiring disconnections, you could take the whole upper column off the car if you wish.<br><br>With the shroud removed, loosen the four nuts holding the upper steering column to the car. I recommend leaving the nuts on with a few turns to stop it from hitting you in the face and leaving a scar below your left eye.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"359\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_33_800-edited-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four nuts secure the steering column\" class=\"wp-image-2062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_33_800-edited-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_33_800-edited-1-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Four nuts secure the steering column.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>We can undo the pinch bolt on the universal joint at the bottom of the upper steering column. The bolt only fits one way around, so don\u2019t worry about marking it for re-fitment. You\u2019ll need two 13mm spanners to undo it. The nut is oval, so don\u2019t be too worried if it\u2019s not super tight! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_34_800.jpg\" alt=\"Steering column universal joint pinch bolt\" class=\"wp-image-2031\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_34_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_34_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_34_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_34_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Steering column universal joint pinch bolt<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_35_800.jpg\" alt=\"Pinch bolt removed using multiple 13mm spanners\" class=\"wp-image-2032\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_35_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_35_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_35_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_35_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The pinch bolt was removed using multiple 13mm spanners.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2.4 Removing the upper steering column<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>With the pinch bolt removed, remove the four nuts holding the column up. The universal joint can be separated by pulling the upper column off the lower column. The upper column can then be lowered into the footwell. There is no need to undo the wires to the stalks. However, I would recommend undoing the two bolts holding the bonnet release lever. This will give you much more freedom of movement in the upper steering column.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Man, look at this for access!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"479\" src=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_36_800.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2033\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_36_800.jpg 800w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_36_800-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_36_800-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/BXHeaterTap_36_800-768x460.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Full access to the heater tap and heater matrix.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Still to come in parts 3 and 4<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In the next article, I&#8217;ll cover the removal and disconnection of the heater matrix. This is harder on right-hand drive models, but hopefully, it won&#8217;t be too difficult after this preparation. Once off the car, we can take a look at what&#8217;s inside the tap. This should let us better understand what causes the blockages. <br><br>If you have any specific questions, ask them below, and I&#8217;ll cover them in future articles.<br><br>M<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-3\/\">Next &#8211; Heater Tap Overhaul &#8211; Part 3<\/a><br><br><a href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/category\/automotive-adventures\/citroen-bx-articles\/\">Back to Citroen Articles<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/automotive\/\">Back to Automotive Articles<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Back In 2012 I wrote an article on the removal of the heater tap over on the BX Club Forum. It&#8217;s never felt quite finished so in this article series I&#8217;ll revisit the original post. Hopefully the updates and additional insight will help you with problems with your Citroen BX heater tap.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2067,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[17,5,9],"tags":[10,259,61],"class_list":["post-1994","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-automotive-adventures","category-citroen-bx-articles","category-maintenance","tag-citroen","tag-heater-tap","tag-restoration"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Citro\u00ebn BX - Heater Tap Overhaul - Part 1&amp;2 - BX Project<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In 2012 I wrote an article on the removal of the heater tap. It&#039;s never felt quite finished. In this article series I&#039;ll expand on the topic.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-heater-tap-overhaul-part-12\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Citro\u00ebn BX - Heater Tap Overhaul - Part 1&amp;2\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Back In 2012 I wrote an article on the removal of the heater tap over on the BX Club Forum. It&#039;s never felt quite finished so in this article series I&#039;ll revisit the original post. 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