{"id":6611,"date":"2023-10-01T21:09:14","date_gmt":"2023-10-01T20:09:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/?p=6611"},"modified":"2023-10-15T13:18:47","modified_gmt":"2023-10-15T12:18:47","slug":"citroen-bx-xpo-steering-rack-boots-eps30","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bxproject.co.uk\/blog\/citroen-bx-xpo-steering-rack-boots-eps30\/","title":{"rendered":"Citro\u00ebn BX \u2013 XPO \u2013\u00a0Steering Rack Boots \u2013 Eps30"},"content":{"rendered":"<\/span> 7<\/span> min. read<\/span><\/span>\n

As I nudge closer to putting the engine back into XPO, I need to tackle a few engine bay jobs first. One of the glaringly obvious jobs is the steering rack boots, or gaiters if you will, which are often a struggle to change. However, they’re a tad easier with the engine out, so I should probably crack on!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perished steering rack boots.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Steering Rack Boots are a popular topic in the BX world. Partly because the ‘right’ ones are hard to find and partly because changing them is a pain in the posterior. Difficult to access, difficult to get on and off on the near side and to top it all off, the current aftermarket parts are too fat to fit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"June
June 2022 – Half a field on the front subframe.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, there was simply no way to avoid the job on XPO. The boots have seen better days and, in places, grown up and left home. While there is no surprise that 30-year-old plastics have deteriorated, the filth around them may not have helped. XPO has been off the road since 2008, and the front subframe is sporting a very fetching garden. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Overhauling the Steering Rack<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, the steering rack on XPO needs a little TLC, and not just the gaiters. The issues are minor, in line with age, but need tackling before the rebuild progresses. Let me walk you through using this handy coloured diagram.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Steering
Steering rack boots (green) need replacing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  1. All three steering rack boots\/ covers (in green) are perished and exposing the chrome ram of the steering rack. Actually, number 5 is in okay condition but needs to be destructively removed to tackle;<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. The inner tie rods (blue) are no longer tying much of anything together. The giveaway that they are past best is that they can’t keep themselves up anymore. And no amount of Viagra is going to help.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Finally, the track rod ends aren’t too bad, but getting the buggers off the car could be an event all of it’s own. <\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Removing the track rod ends.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    While there isn’t any obvious play in the track rod ends, they need to come off to replace the inner tie rods. And they are rather stuck. The nut holding the rod to the hub comes off easily, and using the right tool, the ball joint is freed from the hub relatively quickly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"BDX
    BDX is my go-to for stuck nuts.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The inner connection, however, is quite the opposite. Normally, it would be quite tricky to access, but I have a lovely hack to accessing the lock nuts. Simple enough, just take the engine out! Oh, and a serious dousing of Bulldog BDX penetrating oil<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"The
    The exposed thread makes the wheels point straight.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Just one more thing to do before undoing the lock nut and removing the track rod, measure the exposed thread. The length of exposed thread sets how straight the wheels point, so good practice is to try to put them back on in the same position, knowing the car will still need tracking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Materials for steering rack boots<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The steering rack boots can be quickly removed with the track rods removed. Well, to be honest, they could be removed quickly anyway, as there wasn’t a lot left. The original boots are a form of thermoset plastic, rather than ‘rubber’, as many modern cars are.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"Old
    Old steering rack boots pretty much fell off.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The steering rack boot acts like a bellow. The folds in the material allow the cover to compress and extend in length as the steering is turned from one side to the other. Part of the reason for the thermoset plastic is because the material can be thinner without losing any ‘stretch’. This means the compressed steering rack boot is shorter and more compact.

    We’ll come back to this topic shortly!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Replacing the inner tie rod joint<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    I’m not sure I’ve ever had to replace the inner tie rod joint on any steering rack that was actually in the car. There was an argument for disconnecting the rack from the hydraulics, steering wheel and subframe and taking the whole lot to the workbench. I’m always loathed to take a steering rack out, though. So, changing the tie rods in situ would be a new experience. A giant set of stillsons was not going to work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"Inner
    Inner tie rods are struggling to keep it up.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    These are honestly the worst inner tie rods I have ever seen. The amount of play on the offside was ridiculous, to the extent it was hard to tell the rod was still connected to the cup. While the near side seemed to be able to hold itself up a little, I suspect this was only because it still had its steering rack boot on it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Magical inner tie rod removal tool<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    It’s not often a tool that does exactly what it says on the label, with a minimum of faff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"The
    The magical tool makes inner tie rod removal a doddle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    While researching how to get the little blighter out in situ, I discovered this magical tool. Designed purely for removing difficult-to-access inner tie rods, the tool is a one-trick pony worth its weight in gold!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"Just
    Just keep turning the ratchet until the tie rod releases.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    In principle, the tool is not much more than a captive cam. The more the ratchet is turned, the tighter the grab on the tie rod. With a good grip, the turning ratchet eventually releases the captive plate, and the inner tie rod becomes free. Despite the tricky access, the tool makes removing both sides easy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Out with the old, in with the new.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Trying to find a good supplier for inner tie rods (95495440) was quite a faff. If I want a basic brand, shipped from Latvia for \u00a335 then the availability is fine. Maybe I’m just old, but this used to be something I could get from SKF for under \u00a38!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"New
    New inner tie rods are a lot less floppy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Likely not the greatest replacement brand in the world, but this ‘Optimal’ brand was the only inner tie rod I could get on short notice. The locking plate (not shown) was rather useless, but the old ones were compatible and reusable. The new ball joints can at least hold themselves up now. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Choosing a steering rack boot kit<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The modern materials used in aftermarket steering rack boot kits are far more flexible, and a lot thicker. This means they bunch up and pop off. There’s not a lot of point in me trying to explain it with pictures. Certainly, there is no point in trying when Kitch of UpNDown YouTube<\/a> fame has done a cracking job of explaining and showing the issue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n