But but but, I just can't see this - if the cam and crank stay stationary and you put the belt on round the water pump - has to be slack as the belt run using the genuine waterpump does not correspond to an exact number of teeth. If you then allow the tension to equalise then surely the cam and crank *must* alter their timing in relation to each other! What I should have done instead of putting the old water pump back on, is lock the cam and crank, and rotate the cam pulley on the cam so that the belt fitted correctly...Philhod wrote:Once you have set the belt tension, before starting, if you do 4 complete revolutions by hand, (just put some chalk on the belt to know when it's round) It equals out the tension in the belt on all runs
No flywheel hole on this one - the official tool has 2 teeth on it which fit into a slot in the bellhousing and is secured with one of the bellhousing bolts. You then use a feeler gauge between the teeth to ensure no. 1 is at TDC.