BXProject

[Way2go]

This is an odd one but hopefully info is available from our residen experts!

Driving down the M4 at 70 there was a sudden load noise as if the bearing had suddenly shattered on the blower. Turned the blower off, proved not that but sound emanating from behind dashboard in front of me. All guages reading right and no red lights so continued to next junction and as I slowed up the sliproad to 30 mph, noise stopped. restarted at 50 but speedo and mileometer seemingly working correctly.

Problem went away, then came back last night from startoff but speedo and mileometer still smooth and correct. Problem went away after stopping at 2 traffic lights.

Thought it might be speedo outer cable fault as this was intermittent?

Tonight, again started and stayed for 4 miles until parked but didn't hapen on return journey!

Was thinking I need to change the cable but speedo behaved differently tonight as each time the noise started up the speedo was reading circa 10mph more than road speed.

Can this be the cable or is it more likely that it's the speedo head? Has anyone had a speedo head apart? Is there a screw or something that can work loose and temporarily lodge between the spinning eddy discs (take it it's what it uses ), all advice welcome as dismantling the dash and resolving this needs to be priority with minimum downtime on a daily driver.

[docchevron132]

More likely to be the head itself than the cable.
Nearly always the grease applied to the spinner (where the cable enters the head) turns to concrete and the thing seizes.
By chance, if you have the heater on HOT and only on the demist setting, does it get better?
Bet it does.

[Way2go]

It was hot & on demist when this started and so doesn't seem to imrove it. On the return, I had to back out of the space and I noticed a scraping noise but it then didn't do it going forward on the journey home.

[docchevron132]

Odd!
Either way, I reckon the speedo head is fucked.
If it seizes completley it'll chew the shit out of the top cable too...

[Way2go]

Another thought! This speedo has always been smooth (not bouncy) and spot-on accurate too, this problem "suddenly" happened which suggests that it wasn't necessaily long term degradation although maybe a speck of this hard grease you suggest has broken off and got between the discs?
Is this speedo (veglia) easy to dismantle with screws or such or is it a welded together construction making servicing impossible?

[docchevron132]

Every speedo head I've had fail went the same way. Worked perfectly, then without warning, in an instant, went all to cock, odd noises, followed by total failure..

You can strip the head to a fair extent.
Although the mazak casting at the rear of the head is riveted tot he plastic body of the head in which the drums are located.
The spring, disc and magnet are all located on the mazak casting...

[Philhod]

What about that infernal plastic clip breakeing, that holds the cable in place at the speedo head???????????????
Last time I had no spare heads and gorilla glued it back and it worked ok...well it was a bit bouncy but well readable.
If it has bust and you use gorilla glue, be warned, only the tiniest drop!!!!!!!

[mat_the_cat]

gorilla glue

WTF? Is that anything like monkey milk?

[Way2go]

What about that infernal plastic clip breakeing, that holds the cable in place at the speedo head???????????????

Mmmh Don't think it would be that as the speedo continues to read even though intermittently noisy. I'm convinced something is rubbing against the spinning parts as noise is speed related and may either make no difference to reading or as last night cause an increase in the reading whilst noisy. When the noise goes away, the speedo reads smooth & true.
Only answer is to strip the head I guess and inspect what is what?

[Bx Bandit]

Mine effing needle is more wobbly then a pair of well used boobies. I've pissed about with the cable no end and did it make a difference? Did it fuck. I need a damn good winge, but I won't spoil your thread w2g.

How do the heads fail exactlky doc meister?

[Vanny]

Mat, please dont do any joinery until you learn what Gorrila Glue is, you is clearly amateur!

PS Gorrila Glue is a brand, generic name is something like PVU Foam Glue which probably give the game away. There should have been loads used in those stables you built your missus!

[Philhod]

Your more or less right there Vanny, but unlike the foamy construction like stuff that comes in a gun, this stuff is liquid.

It does expand like buggery, hence the warning!!
Until very recently you could only order it from an obscure catalogue, as it was banned from sale "off the shelf" because it contains some really nasty chemicals.

This has now been revoked (happily) as it now has a whole list of warnings on the label.
HEED THEM, if you get some.
It's actually about the best glue I have ever used. It truly will join anything. My BX side window btm ledge that grips the glass, caved in (rotted). I took it out and glued it all together.

That's how I found out how much the stuff expands I had to grind the stuff down to get it back in, thus manufacturing a new one out of GG mixture.

Use gloves at ALL times when using it, coz if it stains yer fingers the only way to get it off, is to remove the skin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[docchevron132]

Mine effing needle is more wobbly then a pair of well used boobies. I've pissed about with the cable no end and did it make a difference? Did it fuck. I need a damn good winge, but I won't spoil your thread w2g.

How do the heads fail exactlky doc meister?

In your case it's almost certain that'll want a new cable, top and bottom bits.

They really only work for about 3 years before going ghey, although if you use the car everyday it'll last longer.

Heads fail in several ways mate.
The gears can strip on the drums, but in case of the actual needle failing it's nearly always the rotating bit the cable goes into that breaks up, seizes or just gets rough in rotation.
Since there is no mechanical link between the needle and the cable then having the spinner thing rotate freely makes all the difference.
They are lubed from factory, but it's like LS-EP" spec grease or some shit which is frankly too heavy for such a delicate little thing.
This, assuming the cable is good, is why the needle can give varying readings dependant on ambient temp and whether the heaters on etc.
The warmer it gets in the car the more the grease eases up.

[Bx Bandit]

Hmmm, ta Doc. The top one is only about 18 months old and I pulled the new one through with the old one. It goes behind the heater box as you suggested and is free to move, so I assume there are no tight bends etc.

Can you remind me the best path for the engine bay side mate? the smoothest route I could see was up from the drive, through the gap between the block and the metal coolant pipe on the back, skirts round the lhm pump belt and into the bulkhead.

[Philhod]

Talking of re routing things, has anyone seen that programme American Hot Rod.
It's on that new channel Quest.
It's a sort of fly on the wall thing, in a real chop shop, in California.

They are the biggest bunch of pseudo professionals I've ever seen, but they actually get the job done. It's worth watching to see all the stupid mistakes they make...and how they get round the problems, most of which they could have avoided

It will give heart to any would be body repairers out there

[Bx Bandit]

I assume that's Sky dude? Don't have Sky...besides, knowing my luck it'd go wrong somehow anyway

[Philhod]

38 on freeview

[Bx Bandit]

oooooooooh well, I'll polish my handbag! I'll have a ganders.

[docchevron132]

Can you remind me the best path for the engine bay side mate? the smoothest route I could see was up from the drive, through the gap between the block and the metal coolant pipe on the back, skirts round the lhm pump belt and into the bulkhead.

You've just reminded yourself!

Quest on freeview??
Fuck, time for a retune of the box then!

[Bx Bandit]

Ah cool, thanks bro. Must be fooked cable then.