BXProject

I've just had new BJs and d-links and the fucker still rattles like a cunt full of spanners.

I'd be grateful for a few pointers as to what else I should check. The clonking may not be linked to the rattling which is worst when going over a rough surface (like cobbles) whereas the clonking seems to be a loose knocking that happens over larger bumps, possibly independent of the rattling!



Thanks
Steve

Usual culprits for random clonking are loose wheels and loose exhaust.
If any of these have appeared since you had the work done perhaps something was not tightened correctly?
When drop links are done it's best to check the ARB bushes too. Also the front subframe bolts and the front lower arm inner end bushes/brgs.
Battery not fastened down properly,rack not secure, TRE's, the list goes on, in short, you need to generally get under and have a look. If you set the front end on stands, you can check all that lot within a few minutes and there should be no play in any of the above.

No the noises were already there - I had the work done to stop them. Hmmmm

I think you're right - I'll have to get underneath. I'm a bit claustrophobic so might have to borrow a garage ramp for a couple of hours

I'd be inclined to take a good look at the front arm bushes re the large-bump-noise, particularly if it's localised to one side. I had a bx where they'd deteriorated badly on one side, but it only became really apparent when hitting a larger bump. Because there's a fairly large mass to move there, it took a pretty large force to provoke metal-on-metal when the arm itself moved. In that case, the metal part of the bushes had corroded onto the rod the arm locates on, and the rubber part of the bushes had perished.

On the same car I discovered immediately after buying it that the upper engine mount had sheared too, when we jacked up the engine to make space for a water pump change. Ouch!

If the big clonk seems central, maybe take a look at the torque bush bottom front of the engine which some refer to as the lower engine mount - it tends to disintegrate over time. It's in a prime position to suffer oil contamination which eventually turns the rubber to a soggy mess. There's normally driveline judder when taking up drive once it's got to that state, and in bad cases the engine/gearbox can rotate downward and back to hit the front subframe, leaving a characteristic dent. It's the rear end of the gearbox that hits the subframe. Thinking about it though, if it's got that bad you'll hear the clonk on startup...

Thanks FB.

I bought some new axle stands today - then read David Rutherford's post on jacking points and now have to go back to get a bottle jack tomorrow. I remembered that the last time I jacked up a bx to work on it the buggar fell off my bits of wood and it was the trolley jack that pulled it off.

I have a big 4 ton trolley jack. With it pumped to it's highest I can get the axle stands in on their next to highest. This has all 4 wheels at least 8" off the ground and allows my 16+stone frame, to fit comfortably right under.
Never leave hydraulic suspended vehicles on the jack, bricks or bitz of wood, under pain of death.
Also position the stands under a (non rusty) chassis part, avoiding pipes and cables.
I know it's obvious but it's surprising how many people don't bother and you don't get a second chance

I will be careful.

I'm often not careful, just for that added element of surprise!

Yeah! Like . OO I didn't expect that.....gasp ...donk.

Philhod wrote:Never leave hydraulic suspended vehicles on the jack, bricks or bitz of wood

Bollocks, this is BXP so lets be realistic about this.

Leaving on the jack, perfectly acceptable if you maintain your jack, and don't abuse it. The BX only ways a tonne, it won't out do a 2 tonne jack. Your more likely to knock the car off the jack rather than the jack collapse. But that said, its not impossible, and so i will tend NOT to go under the car if its only on the jack (unless there are a large number or burly people about).

Bricks, well it really does depend on the brick. Engineering brick, do what the hell you like, concrete commons then use a lot of caution, and absolutley don't use breeze blocks, there shitter than shit. Mostly bricks will snap or shatter and give you a resonable amount of time to run. I tend to pile them side by side to give better stability. Bricks are also much more likely to trash the underside of the car, they're not very forgiving.

Wood, well this tends to be my preference. Don't use old dry wood unless you know its history, dont use brittle wood, and don't use rotten wood. Dry kilned wood can be okay if its big enough. I quite often use a couple of 4x4" timbers, but that doesn't give you a lot of height. You really should avoid stacking wood, it loves to topple. Best bet is a piece of tree trunk, i tend to go for a 10"+ diameter.

Vanny wrote:and absolutley don't use breeze blocks, there shitter than shit.

I have to fight the corner of the poor old breeze block...

The valver has happily been sat up on breeze blocks since february, I only took it down off them yesterday and they're still completely intact.

My personal favorite is a stack or 2 of spare wheels...

That is all.

Vanny wrote:Best bet is a piece of tree trunk, i tend to go for a 10"+ diameter.

Yeah, that's what I use - there is rather a lot lying around here...

Doesn't sink into the mud like axle stands either!

If anyone would like a set of 'axle stands' made to measure, let me know the dimensions before the next meet and I'll bring a pair.

I barely ever use ramps or stands, pair of three tonne jacks does me.
Hell, I've been under coaches held up by nothing more than a 10 tonne bottle jack, although I probably wouldn't anymore after what happened to Graham, that and my fairly new 10 tonn jack has sunk a few times...

What about getting underneath a hydraulic Citroen when it's on high? I'm sure we've all done it...

All the time yeah. Wvwn with the engine off.

May the force be with you.

The thing I get picky abut is a set of chocks behind the rear wheels when the front end goes up in the air - but I've used allsorts for those.

The licorice ones don't work

Toblerone's are a good shape for wheel chocks........

This thread is on the move again.

Perhaps it needs a toblerone.