Sorry to hear that Ed, I guess its more than four years since I wrote the article, and I haven’t used Autodoc for a good while now. Often seems to be the way with companies that appear from nowhere, grow too big and become less interested in customer service. I’ve been using Febi recently, there range seems to have expanded considerably. I hope your order comes through one way on another.

M

I won’t resort to swearing, but it is an arse of a job to do on a right-hand drive car. Clearly, one of those things that works just fine on a right-hand drive. You need to undo the metal hydraulic pipes. The one on the bottom is the worst. If you’re in a turbo diesel, take the intercooler off (and block the intake with a brightly covered cloth so you don’t lose your spanners, nuts, sanity). The hard plastic return line I usually take out with the Doseur Valve, the other flexible pipe is part of the ocotpus and also needs disconnecting. Then, into the cabin, undo the two long bolts, and the valve will pretty much fall to the floor.
M

Hi Charles, generally I am using 1.5mm cross section (Between AWG 15 and 16). This is less because of current draw or derating for length, but because I find 1.5mm in modern wiring to give a better crimp. In this harness, there were a few higher current wires, which I made in 2mm cross-section (approximately AWG14). I hope that helps.

M

Hi Abhinav, when I used BUS Master, I was attached to a Vector Dongle, so I used the Vector Drivers. However, more recently i have been using the USB/CAN adapter from Innomaker which has been an excellent purchase. I currently have one in a live environment connected to a RiPi4 logging a vehicle CANBus.
I hope that helps
M